Thought we’d reached peak merch? Us too. But from luxury fashion brands to celebrities, podcasts to bookshops, merch is everything, everywhere, all at once. In a digital world, physicality is everything. Which perhaps explains why the merch machine has hit overdrive. The branded product is a souvenir to an experience. An experience that puts you in the know. As the old adage goes, been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Sign, signifier, signified; through merch, you can signal your place into whatever cultural milieu you aspire to inhabit. And it’s safe to say the market for merch is booming. Back in 2021, the global market for merch was valued at $10.2 billion. By 2026, it is expected to grow to $13.2 billion.
IN THE FACE OF THE CLIMATE CRISIS, IS MERCH JUST ANOTHER FORM OF FAST FASHION? AND IS IT TIME WE BROKE UP WITH MERCH?
THE STATS OF THE MATTER
Merch is a form of fast fashion. And fast fashion is killing the planet. Read more here.
We have enough clothing on the planet to dress the next six generations. — Commonsearth
The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions, which is more than international flights and shipping combined. — Oxfam
The world uses an estimated 80 billion pieces of clothing every year, a 400 percent increase from two decades ago. — The True Cost
Fast fashion emissions will grow by 50% by 2030, if current growth continues. — Ellen MacArthur Foundation
Clothing companies create more than one million garments every day. — Greenpeace
RISE OF THE NICHE
From slogan tees to embroidered caps to illustrated tote bags, merch products now signify our certain cultural alignments to others, and emphasise the rise in niche culture.
“New forms of valuation are intangible and symbolic. The narrative that surrounds products is more valuable than products themselves. We want wearable ‘myth objects’ to demonstrate our taste, insider status and cultural savvy. We don’t want to be mere consumers. We want to be associated with game-changing moments, places and people. Merch gives us a new form of wealth, not by association, but by association. The more we get to associate ourselves with knowledge and creativity and cultural activity, the greater is our social distinction and higher our cultural status.” - Ana Andjeclic, Strategy Executive and Author of The Business of Aspiration
MERCH GOES NICHE
Young Thug’s Lawyer Became The Face Of The Rapper’s Spi5er Brand
Brian Steel, Young Thug’s go-to lawyer for over six years (AKA Atlanta’s busiest celeb attorney) recently became the face of Young Thug’s clothing brand Sp5der, after the attorney ensured Thugger was officially released from custody after entering a non-negotiated plea agreement. Enter a campaign starring Steel dripping in Sp5der.
Trader Joe’s Mini Totes Go Viral
Trader Joe’s $2.99 mini totes went viral among Gen Alpha and Gen Z consumers on TikTok, causing a “frenzy” among shoppers (later selling for up to $2,999.95 on eBay, according to the BBC).
HOW DID WE GET HERE?
consumer priorities have shifted. we're witnessing the decline of cool & rising anti-capitalist mindsets
We’ve seen the decline of coolness as value. Gatekeeping is so boomer coded. It’s now much more to do with ethical and moral positions within the world of fashion. Merch effortlessly communicates your values, so you don’t have to.
PERSONAL TASTE IS EVERYTHING
Luxury is evolving beyond material goods and lavish displays of wealth as audience priorities and values are changing. Gen Z are redefining luxury as being less about the products they want to own or the places they want to visit, and more about who they want to be (wbresearch).
WE'RE ALL LOOKING FOR MEANING
“Audiences are looking for luxury brands that are distinctive and create meaning for them on a deeper level. They’re becoming fatigued with the incessant hype cycles.”
Nina Marston, Trend Forecaster & Luxury Expert
So WHAT'S NEXT?
"Our audience’s biggest fear for the future is climate change making the world uninhabitable."
Gen Z Respondent, Dazed's "A Future World" Report
“I hope that in the future, luxury brands will be using trash to create their collections.”
Hillary Taymour, Founder, Collina Strada for Dazed Studio, "A Future World" Report
Our appetite for merch proves that star power trumps ethical concerns. Across the market, there is a lack of transparency when it comes down to exactly how merch is produced, and the environmental impact of production.
“Cultural progress meets systemic constraints. Gen Z values sustainability but buys fast fashion. Brands invest in diverse ads but supply chains remain an eye sore. We are caught up in the convoluted tension between historic high social awareness of outdated legacies that define lived existence and the crushing weight of age-old systems that hold us back.” — Anastasia Karklina Gabriel, CTRL_SHIFT, The Future of Youth Culture, Dazed Studio, 2023
3 LESSONS FOR BRANDS
CONTROL SUPPLY: MAKE MERCH IN LIMITED RUNS
BE TRANSPARENT: COMMUNICATE WHERE AND HOW YOUR PRODUCT IS PRODUCED
THINK TWICE: DOES THE WORLD REALLY NEED ANOTHER SLOGAN CAP?
look to the future. here's who to follow next, featuring the newest members of the dazed100
Based in South Korea, newly-announced Dazed 100er Gyuhan Lee is an innovative artist known for his upcycling projects, particularly for crafting furniture including lamps and chairs.
Dazed 100er Parisian Sidiki Touré is the creative behind multi-brand retail concept store and culture platform The Key Truck, a hub that brings together Parisian skateboard and streetwear brands, with up-and-coming fashion labels and independent magazines. Touré also creates his own products, from t-shirts to photographs of A$AP Rocky, speakers and vegan cookies.
Global movement for people and planet over profit.
a final word from our audience
“We as citizens can only do so much. We need help, encouragement and inspiration - something that shows what we’re doing is actually helping. The climate crisis is a result of money hungry businesses. Those businesses are what we need to focus on now. A lot of people care about our planet, but a lot of people also don’t want to change their whole lives around something they don’t believe will ever get better. Brands need to speak up and start actually acting in a sustainable way.”— Dazed Audience Respondent, CTRL_SHIFT, The Future of Youth Culture, Dazed Studio, 2023
MIGHT BE OF INTEREST
It’s Time to Stop Ignoring the Overproduction of Sports Merch.
Fashion is a climate culprit, but what about sports merch (like for the Super Bowl) that goes to waste? A look at sustainability and sports. Read more on Fashion Magazine, here.
How Fast Fashion Dumps Into the Global South
The U.S. far outpaces other countries in sending used clothing to Africa and Asia – with adverse environmental consequences. Read more on US News, here.
Why Billie Eilish Insists on Sustainability In Her Career: ‘It’s a Never-Ending F–king Fight’
Billie Eilish and her mom, Maggie Baird, discuss sustainability in the pop star's career and eco-friendly initiatives in an interview with Billboard. Read it here.
Words by Izzy Farmiloe and Bryony Stone.
Published 6th December 2024.
Stay in the loop with The Weekly Echo Chamber, your go-to cultural digest. Plus, be the first to see our latest projects and insights, delivered straight to your inbox.
